Friday, December 25, 2015

Voyage to Mexico Oct 25th, 2005

Life now at over sixty is very interesting. These are the many adventures of Captain Benito.  I live in Loreto and have many a tale to tell. My wife and I enjoy all our friends and family, especially the ones who visit. I have two grown boys now, my oldest being on a  fast attack submarine. I am the proud father as this naval tradition continues. This old sailor still has his submarine dolphins. They hang on the wall in my oceangoing trawler, Alley Cat. She is probably the slowest boat on the Sea of Cortez.   These many years later, my old pirate's lore is covered between these lines.  
                                                                                                                                                                  
Preface to the Journey
We started cruising the San Joaquin Delta and enjoying it's pleasures. My 1968 Chris Craft twin engine boat was an older twenty-eight foot cruiser, but she made me smile. Life was good. The San Joaquin river and the delta islands  around our home  was a water playground. We had the cruiser for a few years and shared it with family and guests many a time.

The day had come. The dreams of blue water cruising lived in my soul. At forty eight years old, I still loved life's challenges. I was working in Stockton California back then.  The wallpaper business kept me really busy but this anchored sailor still yearned for more blue water adventures. The old stories of my navy days were still remembered fondly. In Nineteen ninety nine, my wife, Jill and I purchased a seagoing trawler. A thirty-four foot diesel boat, she was older but very seaworthy. This old classic designed trawler was not fast or sexy.  Stockton Yacht Club was where the boat was berthed, she was just a few miles up on the Calaveras river on the Delta. The eleven hundred miles of waterways around central valley kept us on the move. Our yacht club had many a marina and river adventure to enjoy.

This slow 1978 CHB trawler was my pride and joy. The boat's hand carved wood doors and teak finishes, would set the boat apart from the newer fiberglass yachts. Jill and I had renamed her, Alley Cat... This was to reflect our last name. Jill was the Stockton Yacht Clubs Commodore, the third woman ever. The Alleys were members of this Delta yacht club for almost nine years. Our thirty-four footer had cruised the rivers and bays around the Delta. We had learned all the bends and curves of many of these small inlets and larger bodies of water. Cruising the marinas and hangouts, alone and with friends, the Alley Cat's river trials and errors kept us amused.

The boat and my crew would cruise to San Francisco now and again. The Alley Cat had many river ports and anchorages to master.  Jill and I spent five years in all kinds of weather and sea conditions. The two of us made this old boat more comfortable and safer. The year round cruising kept my seaman skills sharp too. I joined another group that tested my abilities in pinpoint navigation. The dream of mine was to cruise the open waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Our jobs and other things always got in the way of a real float plan. That all changed, with the move... Some friends invited us to their home in the lower state of Baja Mexico. A small town called Loreto was located on the Sea of Cortez. The village was on the eastern coast of the peninsula. This pueblo was north of the city of La Paz, some one hundred thirty miles by sea. The Alley's paradise had airport access to the United States.  The deep blue water and year round cruising would be perfect. The year was 2004. That November, Jill and I traveled to this special place. Loreto was a dream come true with a protected harbor open to the sea. Port Escondido just south, being the second best “hurricane hole” on the Pacific ocean coast of Mexico. The Sea of Cortez and this small historic village, was like this "whispering heart” calling to us. We bought a lot near the old plaza, the very next day.

Our seafaring souls were on the move. The trip to Baja was just like magic.  The Alley's journey had been fairly easy so far, the cards just fell into place. Paradise had a price to pay, there were more actions  needed, to make it real. Our boat, the Alley Cat, was still way up north. It was my dream to move her  down old Mexico way. Many of our friends and others feared for our safety on this journey south. The Alley Cat was leaving Northern California and  cruising the long Baja coast. Taking a boat sixteen hundred miles on a voyage, seemed near impossible to most of our yacht club friends. 
                                                                                                             Chapter One
                                                                                                                                                                                          Loreto was over three hundred years old. October 25, 1697, this date was the little town's beginning. The old Baja mission had been founded by the Spanish. My crew and me would take the Alley Cat to her new home. John Omlin, aka Cookie and Larry Mclean, aka Olive Juice would made up this motley crew. This will be a record of my voyage and the thirteen days at sea. We started the cruise out  of San Francisco. That night the boat left South Beach harbor, a late departure.  Alley Cat had dropped lines holding us to the slip on the twenty fourth day of the month at almost eleven o'clock that evening. The slack tide was a plus. We hit the blue water outside the Golden Gate just after midnight, October 25, 2005. The dark Pacific Ocean lay ahead. Hopefully, all my preparations were well spent on the voyage.

San Francisco's bay was as calm as glass, the evening we cruised out. The city's skyline was amazing, it lite up our path to the west past Fishermen's Wharf. That would all change coming under the gate. The dark North Pacific Ocean came to life, heavy surf and fog made it impossible to make the turn to the south. We were pushed northwest in heavy seas and continued on this tack for over an hour. We finally made our move, timing our turn between the large swells. Heading down the coast now, John and Larry had the first watch. The trawler's speed was 7.2 knots in a following sea. The practice run to Monterey Bay, two years prior helped settle our nerves. I was below deck setting the course and auto pilot, watching the radar screen because we were crossing the  major shipping lanes. The boat's movement was to much for me. I had to retire to the salon couch for some rest. Sea sick, I was not much help as the little boat was pitching side to side. Thank God, my crew was up to that night and well prepared for the passage as we moved to the south along the dark coastline.

The seas around the opening to San Francisco Bay have a history of some of the roughest conditions. It is called the" Potato Patch." This night was no different, the Alley Cat was a toy out there. Our first point of reference south was Pigeon Point Lighthouse. We were just south of Half Moon Bay. The boat was running about eight miles off the coast. Alley Cat seemed to just crawl slowly by this lighthouse  for hours. A black sea and bitter cold conditions lay ahead. The cold weather and this piercing light arcing around us every few seconds. The situation made me wonder why this journey was so important. The bright beacon made us aware of how slow we were moving. I was scared and nauseated. My insides tossed as much as the deck on my small little vessel. What a way to start our voyage. I was skipper and sick as a dog! Daybreak, thank God! The sun finally appeared and my stomach got better. My sea legs were back. I relieved John on the bridge. He was the only one still awake. John's spirits were high and appreciated. He was ready for a nap, John went below into the forward state room, aka the cook's quarters.  

Monterey Bay lay in front of us. The daily one man routine would now be two hours on watch and four hours off. The night maintained a two man watch. We did our checks on the engine room and putting things in order. The Alley Cat cruised the Bay at Monterey. Crossing the open water of the bay took all day. The beautiful seas and the added boat traffic welcomed us here. That afternoon six whales were dancing on the horizon. It made us feel apart of the parade of life at sea.

These men on the Alley Cat, my crew could be a very interesting match. We didn't really know each other that well. This time alone together sure would tell the real story. The small boat meant the three of us would make a bond that would last a life time. The vessel was cut off from the world. the crew having to rely on each other. Not just anyone could handle that. I being captain and part of this crew had to wear a smile and be confident in all manner of situations. Life on the moving deck was something to behold. The boat cruising without stopping meant meals and other normal things were anything but.

The boat would run day and night for four days before we would reach Ensenada. This would be our first planned stop, five hundred thirty miles away. The next leg of the trip meant many miles without shore radio contact from Monterey Bay to Morro Bay. We would average one hundred seventy miles a day with running around the clock. I bought a new Satellite radio but couldn't figure out how to use it.  Our big dilemma was no radio music. I had one cd on board, that would drive John and I mad, but Larry loved it. That CD played non-stop for days and days. Somehow it got washed overboard, which is still a mystery.

We felt the pride of conquering our fear and looked forward to the adventure ahead. We cruised into our second night at sea. The last visual point was Pebble Beach, as the sun disappeared into a cold foggy mist. Darkness surrounded us, Cookie and I started our dinner chat about the last full day at sea. John talked about his watch and the waves pushing behind the boat in a special rhythm of its own. The boat was in the Japanese current flowing from the north moving south down the California coast. The wave action of a four to six foot sea kept us moving south. These swells were pushing us to Mexico.

 Dinner consisted of sandwiches and chips. The galley and hot food must wait until Cookie (John), had developed his humming bird skills. John was having difficulty standing at the stove. The salt air was brisk as we climbed to the bridge to relieve Larry for his cold sandwich and nap. John immediately turned off Nora Jones and pulled out his book and flashlight. There was no other boat traffic or radio signals to pick up. The horizon was lost into the black abyss but the old Alley Cat just chugged along. The boat was on its set course due south. I went below to watch the radar and gauges. John and I talk on the radio from salon to bridge. Hey Cookie, you want some coffee? Yeah skipper, that sounds good. I had purchased a new Mr. Coffee automatic brewing system.  Seemed easy enough, just add coffee and water and let it happen, Wrong! Hey John can you get your butt down here. We have a problem. Well it seems to make coffee, you need two people. You had to hold everything in place. That was so the pot or maker doesn't end up on the floor. Then you had to put the whole thing in the sink. John and I could then pour the coffee into the mugs. It worked. The process turned into a three man operation later on.

I don't want to get ahead of myself. Larry was midnight till two' watch. We got to make more coffee. Nora Jones   and Larry were on the bridge watch.  Benito being captain, my below deck watch at night was more like catnaps. I would check on Larry every so often, we would talk. Larry was the oldest of the crew and probably the most important. He was a mechanic and a skilled diver. Larry owned a Napa Auto parts store in Tracy, California. The problem was that he was a newlywed and missed his wife Margret already. The fact he was worried about his lawn getting mowed was a bit much. This was amplified more after a few drinks, that would be later on. Lucky drinking was forbidden on the boat, at least until we were in harbor.

The weather that second evening started to get more severe as the night went on. The crew not seeing the swell didn't help. We worked out a method of someone coming down from topside. They would call the salon steering station and then proceed down. We'd keep our eyes on each other until safe in the cabin. Man overboard was not an option. Weather was getting more hazardous around midnight. Alley Cat may have to come in to port. Sometimes the fear in your heart must be suppressed and not shown to the crew, this was one of those moments.

The nearest safe harbor was Morro Bay. The Alley Cat at night in a rough water entry, this was a big problem. I didn't have a good feeling about this port due to a big submerged rock at the harbor entrance.  The rough water made the entry dangerous. I remenbered a photo of a big yacht headed out of this bay with George C. Scott as Captain. The surf was so wild it broke the back of his yacht. Someone snap the picture as it happened. We opted to continue down to Point Conception. The boat would be there at dawn. Having an early morning passage around the Cape sounded much safer. We regained our radio contact with a new report from the Coast Guard about small craft warnings.  There was a large storm coming in from the north along the coast. It was time to smile and look confident.  
                                                                                                   
                                                     
Chapter 2     
                                                                 
The best stories are lived and savored. That's what life is about.  This story has been living in my heart for almost ten years. The fact I remember details could be because the impression of that experience will live with me forever.  Point Conception was another  terrifying place. Historically, it had a bad habit of sinking ships. In the 1920’s, a whole navy convoy disappeared in the fog and sunk on these rocks.  We needed good weather and some luck to make this passage. That didn't seem possible for the Alley Cat and its crew.  The morning weather was supposed to lay down and the seas be calm. The voyage into our third day seemed to do the opposite. The night before and from Morro Bay south, the seas had built up. The wind was blowing some fog away but we were not safe. My little vessel was tossed about with abandon. The sea swells were well over fourteen foot or more. The sunrise was now scary, because the crew started to see the real situation. Sometimes with our mouths open, the roller coaster ride was insane; everything was being tossed and thrown to the floor. The boat was surfing some big ass sea swells. The auto pilot had to be retired.  It couldn't keep up with the course corrections and wide swings. I had to get out the drill and wood screws. We started fixing all the drawers and small doors by screwing them shut. The helm cabinet chair in the salon had to be anchored to the outside wall because it left the floor. That said, John was struggling with the steering. He asked me to take the helm as the rudder would not turn the boat. The boat locked us into an awkward side way drift (not good.) This maneuver could put us at a bad angle in the trough. The next huge wave could flip the boat over.

The confident smiling fool at the wheel was real nervous for the next six hours. I used the stern thruster for steering and to control the drift. That ten inch propeller would force water sideways and help the rudder do its job..Alley Cat was running down the top of a mountain of water, now at break neck speed. Then stall at the bottom, just to crawl up the next wave. No one was allowed to go on the upper deck in these seas. The waves washed over the transom and broke the stern light's two foot high metal post. Sometimes it felt like the sea would push us almost backward.  Alley Cat would shutter, listing a full thirty degrees and fall back into an uneasy rhythm.  The first hours went by slowly. I said, John can you take the helm for a minute or two? I needed to go to the head and take a leak...          His answer was skipper, "I will bring you a bucket." I could see in their eyes nobody wanted this steering wheel. The boat finally rounded the cape into Santa Barbara Channel. We now had to cross to the east still fighting the seas. Alley Cat trying to find a sweet spot, maintaining a sideway drift to the east.

The wind was blowing over 30 knots out of the southwest. The three man coffee making was in effect. I just could not let go of the helm long enough, so no hot beverage today.  (except from Cookie's log;) "The Skipper was at the helm for hours due to the rough conditions. Alley Cat is very seaworthy. She can surf with the best one armed girls. We would enter a set of waves head down into the trough, then climb up next only to ride at speeds of eleven and a half knots down the wave. Considering our surf board weighed 24,000 lbs, three awe stuck crew had an amazing ride. The seas emptied the cabinets several times and it broke the counter top and a lamp. Everything that was not bolted down flew somewhere." 

This adventure was starting to look better as a big yacht was making its way north. The vessel was taking white foaming seawater over the bridge. There was another fool. The boat was going into the storm. I said, see we aren't the only ones out here. Then a closer look revealed, it was a one hundred thirty foot Coast Guard Cutter. She was probably out to rescue us or some other idiot.  There were no other vessels on the horizon. We hadn't seen another boat since leaving Monterey Bay. Our cruise was well over two hundred miles in the open ocean. I was glad to see it going by us. The wind chop was coming at us off the bow and a very large sea swell pushing from the stern.  This made for an interesting afternoon in the channel. The crew decided to make port in Santa Barbara. We were exhausted and ready to touch land.  Three days of open blue water was trying to all on board. Calls were made to home. The crew checking in made us feel part of the world once more. My wife, Jill was glad to hear that I was okay. She told me about the bad storm north of us on the coast. I said, Oh really! we hadn't heard. I didn't want to upset her with the real sea voyage so far.

Larry, John and I kissed the dock. Then we cleaned up and headed out to have a hot meal in town. This marina was beautiful and the restaurants and storefronts a welcomed relief for me and my crew. The fact the ground wasn't moving a great comfort. The crowd started to grow around us as people sat down at the bar. Many listened to the stories of Alley Cat's voyage that week. The blue water adventure and the un-mowed lawn at Larry's house. The drinks flowed freely and the tales grew larger. The three pirates with their wide eyes and full belly's telling our sea saga.

We all slept in the next morning. The boat was almost to the border now only two hundred more miles to go. The end of the month was near. My crew and I cleaned up the Alley Cat,  resupplied the water tanks and purchased some goodies. I fixed the bilge pump float that was sticking and checked all the engine stuff.  Alley Cat's checkout wasn't till noon at the marina. This place made me nervous because the Harbor Master had thrown dye tablets in both toilets. It was a ten thousand dollar fine if any yellow dye ended up in the marina.

"Enough said," the weather had improved, the seas had calmed. It was time to depart. We would have cell phone signals until we crossed into Mexico. This was a good thing, the crew got to talk to their sweethearts. The fog was back, but the visibility was good. The Channel Islands lay to our west. Alley Cat cruised pass the chain of islands on the inside passage. The cruise down the coast, we headed south. The boat ran about five miles off the Los Angeles coastline. My crew was happy with the calmer seas.

Larry, aka Olive Juice told us stories of his life in Southern California years back. The sun even came out and life on the boat was more enjoyable. Our fourth day of travel was winding down. The red sunset and the city skyline lights turning on was a wonderful sight. Cookie, aka (John) even had a hot meal made. John and Larry stayed up till late. I finally got to sleep awhile. Life is good again. The watch rotation continued. We were entertained about three o'clock in the morning with dolphins riding the bow.   ( except from Cookie's Log;) "

The storm stayed to the north, we headed to sea again. We had made it through another day. The next evening, we cruised by the coast.  At three in the morning, Juice and Cookie are hanging over the bow watching the mermaids.  The dolphins played in our bow wake. It was tempting to jump in and join them. There were five sometimes six at a time each staying for an hour or more. They played and pushed even rolled over on their backs the whole time maintaining speed and keeping inches from the bow. The spray from their exhale fogged my glasses. Just before hitting the boat, they would turn and join the others in the wake. This was an amazing sight.”

The next morning, we were approaching San Diego Bay and the temperature was getting a lot warmer. The sea was as flat as a pancake. Then it happened!! I couldn't believe my eyes! A Nuclear Fast Attack Submarine surfaced, five hundred yards off the starboard bow. The moment was priceless. I told my navy submarine stories until they drowned me out with the Nora Jones music. That same afternoon we would cross into Mexican waters. The Alley Cat was running smoothly. My crew entered a new chapter of sea adventures. Mexico was just south of the border. I was homeward bound and was hopeful that the rough seas were behind us.              


Chapter 3

"Mexico," that afternoon we crossed this milestone and it was a time to remember. My crew was still reeling from the past few epic days.  Our move across international waters was almost anticlimactic.  The calm sea and the warmer temperatures were very welcome. Alley Cat's cruise down the Southern California coast saw lots of ship traffic and pleasure boat activity. Things seem to change in these Mexican waters. The fishing boats and some yacht movements still kept us on watch. Alley Cat moved south along the Baja coast.   

According to my electronic charts, we could anchor just across the border at a small island, Coronado.  The plan was to continue down the Baja toward Ensenada making a night maneuver into an unknown marina. All agreed to this float plan and anchoring in the protected cove just made more sense. We dropped anchor at two o'clock in the afternoon. This was on the fifth day of our adventure south.  We called it, "Smugglers Cove."

Laughter was a new part of the experience at sea. This seafaring trio was in great spirits and dinner was a special treat. The oven on the boat had never been used until now.  Cookie made a four course meal magically appear.  The decision was made also to open a bottle of wine or two. Technically we  weren't moving and the engine was shut down so I relaxed the rules. This anchorage was the first time Alley Cat was on the hook in the open blue water. That night, the stories and chats were interesting and full of humor, no watch was necessary. The crew retired for the evening, "all was well."  Being captain, I did keep an eye on our boat movement,  until morning "just saying" catnaps were still in play.

I started a beard on this cruise to Loreto, figuring three weeks was long enough to be presentable.  We were all looked kind a shabby at this point. The next morning, I made coffee and nobody had to help,   " Wow." This was starting out good.  Breakfast was another wonderful meal, I ordered sunny side up eggs and got scrambled but who cared. Cookie was standing still but the pan was moving a little. I guess the crew was adapting to the rolling deck. Larry and I started the engine and pulled up the anchor. The sandy bottom in the cove provided excellent holding. Cookie cleaned up the galley and stored anything that would move. It was time to go.

The coastline was interesting as Alley Cat continued south.  My vessel was on auto pilot and the boat tracked very well. I was looking back at the wake which generated a nice straight line of foamy water. The crew busied itself with small projects.  Larry and I tried to fix the broken stern light that would be important traveling at night along the Baja coast. Only eleven hundred nautical miles to go! That afternoon, we were looking at the next big bay. We had a hard time picking out the entry to the fancy marina. I had called on the radio and everything was good for a slip there. We had a small adjustment to make.


The Alley Cat followed a fishing boat into the wrong harbor. Things just didn't look right. The smell was awful, the rusted out fishing fleet here made my crew very nervous. It seems I made a small miscalculation. This was a few miles north of our planned stop. The fish cannery odor could curl my new beard. The angry fishermen were not smiling either. Alley Cat made a quick exit with no further fanfare, another tale to tell. The problem now was the surf and wind came up. Batten down the hatches.

We were close to shore with no seawall. This was a test of our seamen skills again riding the waves back out to sea. This could get my blood pressure up. Luckily our crew was much better at dealing with adversity. We didn't hit the smaller boat coming in. I had another unpleasant exchange with the other captain.  Now finding the right marina in a thirty knot wind was getting our attention.  We entered the right harbor. The north breeze reddens my cheeks as we came in from the south.  My crew had set lines and fenders. Men were there to help dock the boat, and things improved as we hooked up shore power and water. We then checked all the lines. Laundry and paperwork at the Harbor Master office took up the rest of the afternoon. The date was Saturday the 30th of October.  The marina included a large hotel and secure property. That evening after showers and clean clothes, the pool bar awaited us around a gorgeous swimming pool area and outside gardens. The crew watched as the winds diminished and sunset blazed its red and pink hue.

The three amigos had pick up crew names.  Larry's tag was "Olive Juice", John's tagged "Cookie" and Ben's tag was "Skipper." Dirty gin and tonic was Larry's vice (olive juice in his drink).  Larry's cocktail started out in Santa Barbara and this theme continued. We were feeling no pain as we left the pool area. The I may have had some VO bourbon on my breath. The Hotel Coral and Marina in Ensenada Mexico was grand indeed. After a few cocktails, we went into the hotel restaurant. The feast tonight would be worthy of royalty. The trio had a hard time walking across the floor. We had the sailor's swagger.   (except from Cookie's Log )   "

Dinner was white table cloth with the waiter at our beckon call. Skipper order the garden salad and Juice and I had a Caesar Salad. I commented about the Caesar being originated in Guadalajara and a Mexican specialty at $8.50 per plate it must be a feast to behold. Skipper salad arrived and we were second guessed our selection. Juice and I were underwhelmed when they delivered our salads on a tea saucer garnished with a two inch square of chicken adorned on top. This midge salad was another first. With our dismay, Juice and I politely told the manager upon his visit to our table, that the salad was wonderful. We could hardly wait for the main course. As the manager left, the waiter returned laughing with our real salads. All of us had a wonderful laugh. They had pulled a prank on the gringo's. The staff was great and the evening was enjoyed by all.

The next morning, we shopped at Costco and did the official paperwork (visa for the boat and crew.) 
Sunday, things moved slowly. We had hired a taxi for the running around and he took us to "The Harbor Masters Office." This being a real adventure and took us a few hours to be legal. “The Grumpy Ole Man” in charge seemed to hold court on all the seafaring fellows crowded in his small office. The paperwork in Spanish. He held all of us in limbo as we figured it out. The boat visa worked out though. We then went to the store and loaded up on all manner of food stuff. The crew enjoyed a Costco hot dog and treated the cab driver to lunch.

This hustle and bustle of this Mexican city made a big impression on Larry and John. When we got back to the marina, we moved the boat to the fuel dock and began putting diesel in the tanks. The good news, the diesel price was cheap. The first fill up since leaving San Francisco. We took on over two hundred gallons and had traveled over five hundred miles, not bad, less than two gallons an hour made my day. That and twenty pounds of ice, the crew were ready to go and we did.

That afternoon at three o'clock, the Alley Cat cruised out of Ensenada. My crew was ready to move down the Mexican coastline and so was their skipper.  Part of the reason that we were on the move was because the "Baja Ha Ha". The boating group was leaving San Diego on the first of November. This armada of sail boats and yachts were coming down the same route. My plan was to stay ahead of them. If there was an emergency at least we had backup with seventy or so other boats on their way to Cabo San Lucas. This made the Alley Cat crew feel much safer. Tis a lonely cruise down this desert peninsula with not many places to pull into. The Cat must depend on her crew and the weather.  Yo Ho Ho and a bottle of rum.


 Chapter 4          
                                           
The guys and I  untied the boat and left the marina that late afternoon. The boat was making its way out of Ensenada and the large bay. The last twenty-four hours in port was productive. The Alley Cat must travel due west for a long while.  We had to run further out, because of the sailors and fishermen that plied these waters, fishing nets, small boats and many a ship. The crew hoped these waters would not be as crowded after night fall.  Islands and boats sometimes without proper navigation lights can be a real problem.

The calm water and sunset put us at ease. We shared our feelings about the last port of call. We now had fresh meat and produce from the morning run to the store. Cookie's hot meal that evening was great. The island on the southern edge of the bay was large. The boat got around it, way before dark closed in around us. Juice was on the bridge after dinner, he had Nora Jones playing on the radio. This got John and my attention... Holy Crap! We had forgot to pick up more music CD's, "What the Hell."

The standard rotation was in place as Alley Cat turned due south that night. This leg of the trip would stretch us out the longest distance from the coast. The gentle breeze was at our back. This following sea was good. The boat and crew were completely on our own from this point on.  I was listening to the engine sounds and had said a little prayer. The captain touching base was always good.

The first nights cruise went well. The stars that evening were bright and clear. The worst stretch lay ahead of us. The sea waves were the normal rollers that first night. The difference was the coastline wasn't to our port anymore. That meant the sunrise came up out of the sea. We did have our sea legs back. The blue water was moderately rough as the new day approached. This morning the Pacific was all the way around us.  There were no other boats on the horizon. The crew didn't seem to mind, the crazy skipper was smiling like an old sub sailor.

The chart on the GPS had a highway drawn to our next way-point. We had one more day and night on this course. The Alley Cat's auto pilot was doing a great job. It had to be adjusted now and then for drift and current. The problem was Cookie and Olive Juice. They didn't always pay attention to the heading. Skipper would come up after a nap, just to find us off the highway.  The boat was at times miles to the starboard or port. They both wanted to move the line to compensate. This was my biggest beef with the crew. This zig zagging across the Pacific ate a lot more fuel.

Then it happened sometime during the morning watch. The auto pilot decided to change course. Alley Cat was headed due west to Hawaii (this was not good). We had to retire auto pilot and steer by hand. It was broken and so the real work began. We had to stand watch holding the wheel and stay on the compass point. The crew was not happy but did stay on course. The crew was bitching like the lady's sewing circle, about weak thread. Ten hours later, I finally got out the manual and fixed the thing. The course held on the highway just fine after that. Prayers do get answered.

That evening after dinner, the gale force wind showed up again. The Alley Cat was getting pitched around and the seas were rising...  We were some eighty miles off the east shore but closing in on the stirrup of the Baja tip. Turtle Bay was our next stop. That night still was black as spades, Alley Cat was cutting through the surf. That's when we hit something hard on the bow. A startled Cookie came flying out of the V- Berth. The object hit loud and hard. I put the boat in neutral and slowed the engine. All three of us were on the bow looking into this black abiss. Three o'clock in the morning, no moon and a missing horizon. Still to this day, I had no clue what we hit.

The next morning, the wind and seas were rough and wild. We hanging on for dear life, the boat turned to enter Turtle Bay. The reef was being pounded with waves and the white spray. The seawater crashed over the large rocks on the outside shore. The sea flattened as we came into the protected bay.  The sunshine was warm on our faces and seafaring hearts. The south entry into a open bay, it was large and tranquil. The old rusty pier that held the fuel pump looked like an old movie set. The crew was ready to depart as soon as the anchor hit the sandy bottom.

The smooth flat sea of the bay was inviting. The ancient church on the hill gleamed white in the morning light. This small village was on the high ground. The plan was maybe have a hot meal and make some internet calls to home. We lowered the small boat into the sea off the transom and then attached the outboard engine. This was a first on this voyage, the Honda motor started right up. We headed to the dock, under the pier. Two boys waited and helped tie up the tiny boat. The wood platform was ram shackled and old. The dock did support our weight. The boys agreed to guard our craft for a nominal fee. We were off to spend some pesos and explore. The kids assured us indeed the internet cafe and breakfast was just down the street.

We "three Amigos," walked the path, this town was dirty and smelled bad. This village that didn't meet poverty conditions in our world. There were no restaurants or internet found. This town was not to friendly a place. The crew and I went back to the harbor and small boat. We paid the little boys security fee and returned to Alley Cat. This bay was full of small pangas selling their Baja Ha wears. Tee shirts, coffee mugs, bottled water and other tourist items but alas no cd's. This was meant for the many yachts sailing behind us. The boat was the only  vessel currently in the harbor. This became a tad annoying as these floating flee marketers swarmed around us at anchor.

The Alley Cat crew finished another great breakfast. We all took a nap. After our snooze, the decision was made to top off the fuel tanks and continue our journey, south. The only pirate, we saw was standing on the old rusty pier (and gas dock) giving us directions on how to back the Alley Cat up and stern tie. That presented a real problem, since we were way below the deck were the gas pump sat. There wasn't anyway to see the diesel gas meter. How many liters, Alley Cat would get would be a mystery. The old black hose was passed down to the crew with a red rag stuffed in the end. This wasn't a Pemex gas station for sure. I told the shabby buccaneer in my best Spanish to give me, two hundred dollars worth of diesel fuel, please. A woman and child stood by wanting a coke and candy, the crew obliged. Thank God, I didn't need anymore than this small amount. We had enough fuel to insure our passage to Cabo.  Alley Cat cruised away and out of  Turtle Bay about two o'clock that very same afternoon. We all wondered how many gallons, the money had bought us. The pirate had a brand new pickup sitting on the dock. His business must have been profitable... a pirate chuckle was heard as Alley Cat departed.    

The glass sea was a real treat after the day and night we just experienced earlier. Rounding the point meant we cruised the coastline again. And a much more enjoyable thought, Alley Cat was back at Sea.   (excerpt from Cookie's Log)  "We had a little adventure after leaving Turtle Bay...... Real Pirates! As dusk approached, a small boat was spotted off our starboard stern. As it raced toward us, I joked with skipper that the “Mexican Navy” was going to board us since no one had checked our papers. The small craft closed in on the starboard side. We went to the bridge to get a better view. The Pirates moved to cut across the bow and quickly stopped about twenty yards from the Alley Cat. We called this Pirate # 9 since he was wearing the number 9 on his shirt. He stepped from the cabin with a radio in hand and began to speak to into the radio.  Through the binoculars, I could see that this was not a navy boat. Not hearing any communications on our radio, we are starting to get concerned. After many minutes, #9 waved and went back into the cabin. The pirate turned back toward "smugglers cove" and took position a quarter mile back off our stern. The small boat started tailing us as darkness falls. With Olive Juice asleep, skipper and I make our plans to repel boarders. Skipper took the salon radio and transmitted to the bridge.  Our ship gun was in the cabinet under the helm. There are no restrictions on radio traffic in this part of the sea. With the flare gun loaded, we searched in the dark for the pirate boat. Skipper reviewed our ramming scenario, "All lights out and hard to port. We'll ram the ------, ( "Pirates".  The night watch was a little more exciting.

The pond smooth seas followed us that night but by morning it was back to the big waves and six foot rollers. The pirate boat was gone. Larry slept through the whole episode". Alley Cat's trip to the south continues.  
            
  Chapter 5                      

The cruise ships are passing us coming up and down the coast of Baja. The humidity has increased and sleep is nearly impossible. The sheets and blankets are damp. While the crew naps, each watch seems to run together. I had been tossed out of the bunk to the floor to many times this trip. The seas have been getting rougher the closer we get to Cabo.

The only boat we have passed was a sailboat named "Slow Duck."  Alley Cat has been running south for many days and nights. We were just about far enough to begin to make the move to the east. Hugging the coast, Alley Cat starts to make the turn at the very tip of the peninsula (Land’s End).     Our next problem is we were supposed to be there that afternoon and it's now night fall. Cabo is ablaze with lights and the cruise ship in the harbor is lit up like a Christmas tree. John and I are trying to find the entrance of the marina. The red and green buoy lights are almost impossible to pick out. We take out the chart for this harbor and find our way in.

This leg from Ensenada to Cabo was almost nonstop for five full days. The wind is coming out of the north. It was blowing thirty knots through the marina and south back out to sea. We were trying to get the fenders and lines ready to tie to the gas dock. This was no small feat. The Alley Cat is back on the inside, a real joy to be dockside again. We fueled the boat and the crew picked up ice and cold beer. The marina was full. The Bisbee Tournament was in progress (who knew?).   That meant anchoring outside in front of the beach area at night, another first.

November 4th, 2005 was my sister Sally's birthday, "Happy Birthday Sis." Sleep came quick and sound.  I don't remember dinner or anything else. The next morning my smile wouldn't leave my face. I had a spotty itchy beard. This was fine even though it bothered me. The crew was excited about the white sand beaches, palm trees and a warm breeze blowing gently from the south. Paradise and the water under the boat was clear and blue.  The trio was looking at the bottom in amazement with the anchor buried in the white sand and gleaming in the sun. This wasn't the muddy Delta River for sure!

The crew all opted for breakfast on shore. The dink was lowered and three "Salty Dogs" headed into Cabo. This open mall around the marina was beautiful. The sidewalk wasn't swaying to bad. We entered a nice café with internet and delicious pastries. The coffee only took one man to make it. Phone calls to home were made and our stories told.  Jill was excited to finally hear my voice knowing I was almost to Loreto.  Alley Cat had made it all the way down the Pacific Ocean side.

The crew was happy and safe. These days are burnt in my memory log.  Larry and John walked ahead of me, a sailor's swagger and a tune on their lips, Captain Benito bringing up the rear.... Yeah!... You got it, we were singing a Nora Jones classic. I was so proud of my crew, weathering this voyage. The last 10 days at sea had made us real seamen. These guys are not just bar hopping river rats.  Alley Cat was a true blue water cruiser. Larry kept the boat repaired and running well.  John changed hats many times from cook to mate then log keeper. These skill sets were developed in the worst of conditions. They always wore a smile and both men had my respect and total confidence.

Our plans for sightseeing were replaced with let’s get this wonderful voyage over with. That morning we headed out of the harbor. Alley Cat was cleaned and ready to continue. We made a slow maneuver past the arch rock. There were glass bottom boats full of tourists having great fun. With photos take, we began the next leg starts in earnest. Excerpt: Cookie's Log; "Cabo, its time for my bi-weekly shower.  I had promised hot showers but unfortunately there was no space for us at the marina.  Alley Cat is again anchored outside.  In order to get a shower on board, I climbed in to the 3' by 3' stall and turn on the valve to operate the water. The hose disconnects and it sprays everything but me. I was standing there soap in hand thinking  what now?  Cookie was doing the one hand shower dance trying to hold a hose into the pipe. Cookie had developed his plumber skills.  We all appreciated the calm conditions around the Horn.

My cell phone had been charged.  I couldn't make a call but was receiving text messages now and then. We were informed of a distress call made by a sailboat or cruising yacht that was crossing from mainland Mexico to Cabo. She was in trouble.  The Mexican search plane had been dispatched somewhere off the coast. The weather last night and all the previous day had been awful. Fortunately we were near land and had some protection. The sail boat was in the open sea and over one hundred miles from land.  She was sailing northwest into the wind which was not good.

We are now running near the beach heading due east with miles of sand and a few homes on our port side.  This was a pleasant cruise. The captain tells his crew, well boys this is going to be pretty boring from here on out. The Sea of Cortez is just one big lake, just so you know. Those words would come to haunt me later. The boat was exploring one inlet and saw a group of fishing pangas lined up on the beach. There was barely a ripple on the water. Life was good and as the noon hour approached, we anchored and had lunch on the deck. We barbecued Costco hamburgers, had a bag of potato chips and  enjoyed cold beers. Alley Cat anchored for an hour while we enjoyed the warm, sunny afternoon.  The colorful fish swimming under the boat and around the reef kept us entertained.

Alley Cat pulled up anchor and slowly cruised on.    ( Excerpt; Cookie's Log;)   Skipper's friend had sent another text message: "small craft advisories."  Based on our visual check of the weather around the Cabo area, it was to be a non-issue. That evening we were now turning to a northerly direction and things started to change. Skipper never seems to get it right. We were cruising on the leeward side of this island because of the weather.  It is 1:30 am the morning of the 6th and the wind is howling out of the west. All good things must end. We were now steaming around the island and into the La Paz Bay shipping channel. Alley Cat's ride got a tad bumpy with the wind in our faces.  We are now fully exposed to the gale and sea. Skipper is again thrown from his bunk. Well, it is time for his watch anyway. The sky is black and their void of stars. There is a pattern to the waves.... bounce, bounce and jump... that's right we jump. Alley Cat sets a new record for the long jump, all Twelve tons of her. 

Now, we are fighting to stay on this course. The auto pilot is turned off and we looked out the back window to see the mop giving us directions. We screwed the cabinets closed again. The mop is a wind and wave indicator. We hunt for our heading by feel. Water is being sprayed over the bridge and busting waves are pounding the front windshield. The boat was not making headway and our speed was four knots if that. We were off course and had no clue where we were. Juice was on the bridge wedged between the seats.  Poor Olive Juice was probably holding his breath as the wave came over the boat. The boat shuttered as we jumped to the next set.

John and I needed to get Larry off the bridge without being hurt or lost.  Standing helm watch, I relied on John to keep a watchful eye on Juice as he crawled off the top and moved down the ladder to the deck with the sea washing over him. Larry was on his knees coming down the cat walk to safety. We pulled him into the cabin and shut the door. Juice looked cold and very wet. The look we gave each other could not be related into words as the sea moved us. Juice went directly to bed.

 "Oh my God" had a special meaning at that moment. The radar was showing a contact closing from behind us. I looked out the window and could see faint lights far apart, moving side to side. I thought it may be a fishing trawler, a boat with large whip antennas, or tuna tower with lights. The trawler was getting closer but on basically the same track.  I picked up the radio and called out "fishing boat", "fishing boat." This is Alley Cat do you copy?" This went on awhile repeating the call. I said, hey Cookie, see if you can find the spot light since we needed to signal this boat. The million candle torch or spotlight really cut through the darkness. I signaled SOS to the fishing trawler. Finally the radio came alive this captain was talking to us. Alley Cat this is the Californian. I said, yes... we're from California since I did not understand his accent. Then he said, no senor.  I am “The Californian.” We are a freighter cargo ship, do you need assistance? My mouth opened with no sound. The long silence...finally broken.. No thank you sir, but maybe I will follow you for awhile.  He told me they were headed to La Paz. I said, that sounds good to me, let's go.  The ship was turning at least nine knots. Following his stern light, we lost him in the storm. The Alley Cat had an hour with a course which was a good thing. 

I said, John, maybe we should check on Juice. How could he sleep through this and stay in a bed?" Cookie came back from the aft cabin to report. "I think he's dead". That old Scot could be, but we could not do anything about it now. So John and I just held on. Once the sun started to rise, the sea calmed down and things got better. Larry woke up and we made some coffee. Glad to see you Juice, hell of a night on this lake. We all laughed and I went back to bed. The last six hours on a roller coaster was an enough for me.

Our course had to change since Alley Cat was about thirty miles off track.  We would skip La Paz and run farther around the east coast of islands for more protection from the west wind. This was another first. We had stayed on our track all the way from San Francisco until now. Following the electronic charts had been right on the whole trip but just north of La Paz that changed. The crew could use a break.

We studied the chart to find a close by cove or small bay. Relaxation became very important and the chart showed a cove and we decided to investigate. The land mass is a half mile closer than our charts indicated and the cove did not exist.  Problem, my big money program is flawed.  This scared the crap out of me. Alley Cat was going between the islands and the coastline in the dark without confidence in our electronics. The charted land and sea routes could be wrong. The depth and reef obstructions may not be true. After discussing it with the crew, we continued another day to Loreto. Good News... once past La Paz Bay the seas got flat and stayed that way the rest of our trip. I increased the speed to seven point six knots. Crossing to the inside of the island chain north turned out to be a good call. I was proud of the crew, life was good again until the sunset and we slowed down again. The navigation lights that weren't there and points of land not seen drove a captain to drink.  I was about to break my own rule.... where is my VO bourbon.  We were all tired this last night at sea and it was wearing heavily on me.

The lights of Loreto in the distance brought were a wonderful sight. But the boat had a small hiccup close to shore. The depth finder showed no water under us. Cookie noticed that and our adjusted the course a little. We reached Loreto and tied to the fishing dock. The time was 11:30 pm, Nov. 6th, 2005. Our trip had taken thirteen days and nights and we celebrated by patting each other on the back.  The epic voyage was over and we had all the facts and figures are in our log.  I was thankful for my crew as well as my desire to make it happen. The crew is safely on land again. We walked to town from the marina, late Sunday night.  Warm temperatures and a mild breeze greet us

Alley Cat still lives in this Paradise called Loreto Baja Mexico, almost ten years now.   Why Loreto? Loreto is a sleepy little village in the middle of nowhere. The world Series had happened on our voyage. The White Sox had won, first time in eighty eight years. Wow!  The "Skipper" didn't really care.  His trawler Alley Cat had just arrived in her new home. She traveled over sixteen hundred miles from San Francisco bay to this small town on the Baja sea, Why? We walk these lonely streets to Loreto's Plaza.  It now deserted. The only action was at Mike's Bar. The music was calling us. There was a blind musician playing something different than "Nora Jones." The beer was cold and all four customers in the bar stared at my motley crew. There were whale bones hanging from the ceiling in this elliptical bar which was interesting and dark, as if "Bogie" was here.  We bought the "house" a round of drinks.  We shared many sea tales that night at Mike’s while the excitement was still flowing in the warm night air. I'm sure John and Larry were wondering why this place had stolen my heart.  Jill, my wife, knew why. Our "Swagger" replaced with a staggering trio finding our way back to the marina. Our story told to blank faces.  " no comeprendie senor."  Alley Cat's bunks looked good. Something was very different... the deck was "still". The big lake promised finally appeared.

The silence was shattered next morning with voices and nets being tossed around the marina. John now reported its 5 o'clock in the morning, what the hell is happening?  Loreto had shown up. We were tied to the fishing docks and community rises early to being its trade. Now foot steps and laughter cut the calm. The fishing pangas were all around us, loading up and making their way out of the harbor. The heartbeat of life surrounded us. Poor Cookie wasn't ready for this kind of excitement, Juice slept on... John and I made coffee and greeted the day. The sunrise was amazing. 
Later that morning, the trio ambled by the new casa. We stood in amazement as the gray unfinished structure was way to cool.  It was almost done a total surprise to me. It was early Monday and there was no work crew, fantastic. They must be fishing.  John, Larry and I continued to Café Ole' around the corner.  The Alley Cat crew had American coffee and great Mexican food.

John was packed and ready for his escape. We had checked into a hotel next to the old mission. We all had hot showers and clean clothes.  John had changed his plane ticket to that afternoon. We'd arrived a whole week earlier than expected. John told me that this was "a once in a life time experience", Larry and I agreed. We were able to relax for the next couple of days. The pirates would pick up the wives at the airport. Chino Yee, my Mexican amigo gave us the keys to my friend's van. We had rented a casa for the next ten days. The tears and hugs met us at the airport, our girls had arrived.  It was hot that afternoon.  Standing under the palapa roof terminal in the shade felt great. Marge and Jill wanted all the details, Larry and I gave them our best "pirate chuckle.  This was a tale for seafaring hearts ever though my historic facts may be a tad skewed. 

This "paradise" I call home was an old Spanish seaport in its day.  We didn't have a clue why this place was so important.  Jill and I needed to find out why.  The Sea of Cortez was a dream.  I had no idea what was really out there. The Alley's left the world they knew for this place in the middle of nowhere.  It was amazing but yet scary story.  My boat was sitting at a fishing pier. We needed to rely on local people. The voyage was over. At least the natives were friendly.

We left with Marge and Larry. It was a great flight home. The thirteen days spent in Loreto, had secured many details with the help of our friend Chino. This Loreto native was my go to man. Chino’s English helped us a lot.  The marina's Harbor Master filed Alley Cat's paperwork. He gave us permission to be on the dock until Api ( government agency) approved us. We had asked for a European tie on the interior wall just across from the fishing dock. We first had to go through the proper channels. Our builder was working on  "Casa Benito". We made a few changes to the plan. I made Chino  "el captain" of Alley Cat. My new captain had taken the boat out a few times with us. Chino was in charge. The best part of the story is Alley Cat was in the marina less than two blocks from our new home. Jill and Skipper would enjoy the sea and share it with many new friends.  We had many great adventures awaiting us. Alley Cat was destined to cruise the islands in the Baja Sea.    Captain Benito smiled that pirate smile.